construction note no.6008
| subject: | railway sleeper bridges |
| relating to design note nos: | 3032: bridges; |
As of June 2003, A new EC directive means it is illegal to use railway sleepers, or any creosote impregnated timbers under certain circumstances. Whilst this should not prevent most domestic use, please click here for more information.
A zigzag bridge on oak posts
A supported bridge on Chestnut poles
Cross-section showing post/pole base systems
Where bridge direction changes, a triangular post system works well
As we have seen in the above design note, timber railway sleepers (railroad ties in usa) make an ideal material for constructing small and medium sized bridges.
Across a small ditch or stream, two or three sleepers laid side by side may be enough to span across from side to side. Sleepers are so thick that they only need supporting each end - but adequately!
Larger spans of more than one sleeper length (generally 2.5m) will need a central support or a post and cross-beam support method. Supports should not be sleepers as they contain large residues of creosote. I have seen old telegraph poles immersed in ponds with no apparent detriment, but I wouldn't advise it.
Due to their rugged nature, I believe that sleepers are best used for simple structures without handrails. More elaborate or complex bridges should perhaps be made from sawn timbers. A separate construction note will be written on this subject.
A single span bridge
Overlapped sleepers create a stepped bridge
Detail of cross-beam joints
construction method for a supported sleeper bridge:
- Legs for supports should be of sawn oak, preferably 150x150mm, or of round chestnut poles of 200mm - 250mm diameter. These should be peeled (ie. no bark)
- Where support posts are in a pond, they should be placed on a concrete pad, within a lined pond, or concreted into old car tyres dug into the pond base mud. Pour concrete once crossbeams attached, to allow for positioning.
- Crossbeams should be sited at the correct level and made of 50x150 sawn oak. These are bolted through onto the posts. Where poles have been used, a notch will have to be cut in to present a flat face for the beam.
- Fix sleepers to cross-beams using 200mm TimberLok fastenings.
- Use tie-backs on long straight sections of wall, or where height exceeds 1m.
- After 48 hours, place drainage medium as back fill.
- Pressure-wash exposed faces to remove tar residue (best done prior to construction to avoid contaminating beds).
- Once concrete has set, (minimum 48 hours) wire backs of sleepers together using 3mm galvanised wire and 30mm fencing staples. Do this just below the soil line.
- On long straight stretches, or walls over 900mm height, horizontal tie-backs may be needed into the bank (see note 6007).
- Gaps between sleepers act as drainage outlets.
- Backfill rear of trench with drainage medium (gravel).
- Place topsoil to top 300mm (over drainage medium), tread down firmly.
- For planting beds, leave sleepers some 75mm above the soil level to allow for mulching.
summary:
- Plan terrace heights in sleeper lengths, or even divisions of, to minimise wastage
- Place sleepers to concrete footing on a 25mm bed sand/cement mortar
- Secure to sleepers below using recessed 150mm nails
- Place dowels to nail recesses on top row
- Avoid using short lengths of sleeper to top row
- Step back each row in 25mm increments
- Clean off sleepers with a pressure washer and detergent
- Place drainage medium behind sleepers
Other construction notes which relate to this subject:

